The first decision anyone planning a Ladakh trip gets wrong is treating both highway approaches as interchangeable. They are not. Manali-Leh (NH-3, 479 km) and Srinagar-Leh (NH-1, 434 km) have different opening dates, different altitude profiles, different road quality, different fuel stop reliability, and different scenic character. Which one you take first - and whether you loop both - shapes the entire trip.
I drove the Manali-Leh highway on a Royal Enfield Himalayan and returned via Srinagar-Leh a week later. The two roads felt like different countries. This is a route guide, not a mood piece. If you want to know how many kilometers between fuel pumps and whether the Baralacha La section is rideable after June 10, read on.
🛣️ Route 1: Manali to Leh (NH-3)
Total distance: 479 km. Recommended 2 riding days with overnight at Jispa.
Day 1: Manali to Jispa (114 km). Start from Manali at 2,050m. Rohtang Pass at 3,978m or bypass via Atal Tunnel (no permit needed). Enter Lahaul Valley. Stock fuel at Keylong (last proper station). Sleep at Jispa (3,180m) - HPTDC guesthouses and camps available.
Day 2: Jispa to Leh (365 km). Start before 6 AM. Cross Baralacha La (4,890m) before noon - afternoon storms common. Through Sarchu (4,290m) and three more passes above 4,700m including Tanglang La (5,328m). Emergency fuel at Sarchu camps at Rs 150-200/litre. Arrive Leh by evening.
Do NOT attempt Manali to Leh in one day. The altitude gain is dangerous and the road after dark is dangerous.
🛣️ Route 2: Srinagar to Leh (NH-1)
Total distance: 434 km. 2 days with overnight at Kargil. Opens earlier than Manali-Leh (usually early May).
Day 1: Srinagar to Kargil (204 km). Through Kashmir valley to Sonamarg (2,800m), over Zoji La (3,528m) - narrow, no guardrails, shared with trucks. Cross early to avoid traffic. Through Drass (second-coldest inhabited place on earth). Fuel at Drass. Sleep at Kargil (2,676m) - proper town with ATMs, restaurants, fuel.
Day 2: Kargil to Leh (230 km). Over Fotu La (4,108m), past Lamayuru monastery (worth 30 min stop), through Basgo and Nimmu into Leh. Better road surface than Manali-Leh overall and lower maximum altitude - easier for first-timers.
Fuel on this route is more reliable: Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil, Lamayuru.
🫁 Acclimatization in Leh
Leh at 3,524m requires mandatory rest.
Day 1 in Leh: Do almost nothing. Walk slowly. Drink water. Eat light. No bike rides, no alcohol.
Day 2: Short acclimatization drive - Hall of Fame museum or Shanti Stupa (both within 5 km). Still rest heavily.
Day 3 onwards: Day trips to Magnetic Hill and nearby monasteries. Test how you feel before attempting passes.
Common mistake: arriving in Leh and immediately riding to Khardung La (5,359m) the next morning. That is 1,835m above Leh. Serious AMS risk. Spend 2 full days in Leh first.
See the full acclimatization guide at /guides/acclimatize-above-3000m for Diamox dosage and detailed protocol.
📋 Permits: Protected Area Permit (PAP)
Indian citizens need PAP for: Nubra Valley (including Diskit, Hunder), Pangong Tso (via Chang La), Hanle (astronomy village), Dah-Hanu (Aryan village area).
Cost: Rs 400 per person per area. Apply online at lahdcleh.nic.in or at the District Collectorate in Leh. Processing: 24-48 hours online, same day at office. Documents: Aadhaar copy, passport photo, itinerary dates. Validity: 7 days per area.
Khardung La itself: No permit needed. Foreigners: Additional FRRO registration and separate ILP required.
See /guides/char-dham-epass for the full permit comparison including Spiti ILP.
🏍️ Day trips from Leh
Khardung La (5,359m) - 39 km from Leh. Second-highest motorable pass. Military-maintained road, 1.5-2 hours to reach. Temperature 0-8C even in July. Continue 125 km to Nubra Valley or turn back for a half-day ride.
Nubra Valley - 125 km from Leh via Khardung La. Double-humped Bactrian camels on sand dunes. Valley floor at 3,050m. Two nights ideal. PAP required.
Pangong Tso - 160 km from Leh via Chang La (5,360m). Famous lake at 4,350m. 5-6 hour drive. Camp one night at basic tents Rs 800-1,500. PAP required.
Magnetic Hill and Gurudwara Pathar Sahib - 30 km from Leh. Quick half-day trip. Free langar at Pathar Sahib.
⛽ Fuel station map
Manali-Leh: Manali (last private pumps), Keylong (government depot, unreliable hours), Sarchu (emergency from camps at Rs 150-200/litre), Leh (multiple, reliable).
Srinagar-Leh: Srinagar (multiple), Sonamarg (one pump), Drass (one pump), Kargil (multiple, reliable), Leh.
From Leh outward: No pump at Nubra, Pangong, or Hanle. Always leave Leh with a full tank.
Rule: Always leave Leh full. Every day trip, fill the tank before leaving, even if you filled it yesterday. From Manali to Leh tank-to-tank is 479 km - manageable for bikes with 12L+ tanks plus the Keylong fill-up. Carry 3L extra to be safe.
📅 Best months to visit
June: Roads open mid-to-late May (Manali-Leh) or early May (Srinagar-Leh). Clear and cold. Leh 5-25C. Best riding conditions.
July: Monsoon affects Manali-Leh road. Leh itself gets almost no rain. Srinagar-Leh more reliable.
August: Peak tourist season. Leh hotels book out. Good visibility.
September: The best month. Monsoon retreating. Clear skies. Fewer crowds. Roads fully open. Highly recommended.
October: Late season. Cold. Snow possible on high passes after mid-October. Not for first-timers.
💰 Budget breakdown
Bike (own): Rs 12,000-18,000 total for 10 days including fuel, accommodation, food, permits.
Rented bike (Manali): Rs 18,000-28,000 total. RE Himalayan Rs 1,200-1,800/day.
Shared taxi: Rs 14,000-20,000 total.
Private car: Rs 22,000-35,000 total.
Volvo bus (HRTC): Rs 10,000-15,000 total. Manali to Leh Rs 1,200-1,800 one way, 18-20 hours.
Flying to Leh from Delhi: Rs 3,000-8,000. Saves 3 days of road time. Rentals from Leh available.
Leh has the only reliable ATMs on the circuit. Carry Rs 10,000-15,000 cash for day trips.
🎒 What to pack
Riding jacket with CE armor (not a trekking jacket). See /gear/jackets-ladakh for specific picks.
Two pairs of gloves: warm/insulated for passes, mesh for valley. See /gear/riding-gloves-ladakh.
Base thermals for the 5C to 35C temperature swing. 3L+ spare fuel container for Manali-Leh road. First aid kit with Diamox, Ibuprofen, ORS. Downloaded offline maps (Google Maps works offline, Maps.me for coverage). Spare inner tubes if riding tube-tyre bike.
See /guides/packing-4000m for the complete high-altitude packing list.
When to Go
What to Pack
I maintain a full packing checklist you can tick off and share. Here are the essentials from my list: